Extra Information
BEGINNER'S INFORMATION ON DAIRY GOATS, RABBITS, AND CHICKENS:
BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO DAIRY GOATS
RABBIT CARE FOR BEGINNERS
First of all, congratulations on your new (or upcoming) rabbits! I'm sure you'll find them as fun and rewarding as I have.
The first thing to consider when buying a pet rabbit or beginning to show rabbits is breed. Over 40 different breeds are accepted by the ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association). A description and standard of these breeds can be found in the Standard Of Perfection, which is available for purchase on the ARBA site. Some things to think about when deciding which breed is best for you are:
Size:
Rabbits can be small (2-4 pounds), medium (4-8 pounds), or large (8 pounds & up). If you are getting rabbits for a 7 year old, a large rabbit may not be the best thing. Also, if you have limited room on your property, smaller rabbits may be a better choice. So keep size in mind when picking a breed.
Temperament:
I'd love to tell you that there is no such thing as a mean rabbit, but I'd be lying. Some breeds are just more...aggressive than others. These breeds tend to be the running breeds, such as Tan or Britannia Petite. If you're looking for a gentle breed, then a Mini Lop, Netherland Dwarf, or Florida White may be the one for you.
Show Competition:
This may not be important for pet owners, but if you plan on showing your rabbit, it's a big deal. In some areas of the country, certain breeds are more prevalent than others. If you like a lot of competition, buy a breed that has a lot of breeders and exhibitors in your area. If you like winning rosettes and ribbons, but don't need competition, then a less common breed is for you.
Availability:
This ties into the last item. If you plan on buying quite a few rabbits or want the possibility of adding to your stock later on, you don't want to have to ship rabbits from 2,000 miles away. It's better to get a breed that is well-known and common in your area.
Why You Want a Rabbit:
Different rabbits are for different things. Some breeds are better suited for, let's say, fur production. If you want to have a side business besides showing and breeding, then you might want to get a meat breed or a wool/fur breed. Meat breeds include New Zealands, Californians, Palomino, or Champagne D'Argent. Wool breeds include French Angora and English Angora. Fur breeds are Rex, New Zealands, and Californians. Some breeds, such as the Netherland Dwarf, Mini Rex, and Holland Lop, are just for showing and possibly for pets (although pretty much any breed can be a pet.) Once you've figured out what type of breed of rabbit you want, you should make sure that you have the proper equipment and supplies. You need to think about:
Housing:
The type of housing you need depends on whether you have one rabbit for a pet or whether you want more than a few rabbits. The more rabbits you have, the more accommodating your space must be. A recommended cage size for a small rabbit is 30" X 30" X 14". This will give your rabbit plenty of room to run around and be a rabbit, while providing room for a nest box in the future. Larger rabbits should have around 36" X 30" X 18".
Wire is the best material for cages because it's the easiest to clean and sanitize. Wood will get messy quickly, and rabbits tend to chew on it. An all-wire cage is best, but if wood is needed, try and keep the amount of wood available to the rabbit inside the cage or hutch at a minimum.
Cages should be kept out of drafts, away from predators, and out of the weather. Also, they should be kept in the shade, because rabbits are very susceptible to heat and can get ill if they are not well-cooled.
A sitting board should be provided for larger breeds and for rabbits which have a thinner hair surface of their feet. This is to prevent sore hocks.
Food:
Pellets are the best bet for pet and show animals alike. They contain most if not all of the nutrients a rabbit needs to stay healthy. Several different brands and formulas exist, so ask your pet shop employee or feed store worker to help you choose the correct feed. In my experience, pellets are cheaper in feed stores, and if you have quite a few rabbits, it may be helpful to buy in bulk. Just be warned that feed does go bad, so watch for mold that can make your bunnies sick. The amount to feed a rabbit depends on size and situation. If you have smaller rabbits, such as a Netherland Dwarf, 3 ounces a day is plenty. For larger breeds, the recommended formula is one ounce of pellets per pound of body weight. If a rabbit is pregnant, lactating, or is still growing, they can have full feed, which is unlimited food in front of them all day.
Along with pellets, a rabbit's diet can be supplemented with roughage (hay) of some sort. Rabbits love alfalfa, but it's very rich and should be fed only in moderation. Grass hay such as timothy hay is best and less expensive. Give them all the grass hay they want.
Food dishes should be heavy and not easily tipped or have some sort of device to hold them down. How much money has been wasted in any rabbitry because of spilled feed.
Water:
Water is the most important thing your rabbit needs in his daily diet. Unlike humans, rabbits cannot get water from their food, so we must provide them with clean, fresh water daily. If you notice that the crock or dish is dirty, please take five minutes and clean it out very well. Especially in warmer weather, you should be sure your rabbit has a constant supply of water.
Water dishes should hold plenty of water and be heavy ceramic crocks or large Croc-Locks. Water bottles work also, but some rabbits don't know how to use them. Just make sure all of your equipment is clean and sanitary.
Although a lot more goes into keeping rabbits, this article should get you started on the right path.
A BEGINNER'S INTRODUCTION TO RAISING CHICKENS FOR FUN
Reasons for Raising Chickens
The most common reasons for raising chickens is for fun (e.g. hobby farms), fresh eggs, fresh poultry meat and for gardening purposes (e.g. chicken manure and fertilizer and weed/pest control).
The reason you're raising chickens may influence, to a certain degree, what you need to get started in this fun hobby. Of course, all chickens have general husbandry requirements regardless of the reason they're being raised. All chickens need a chicken coop or house to protect them from predators and the weather; clean water and fresh food; and adequate space. However, your individual purpose for raising chickens may affect how you go about building the chicken coop or what type of chicken feed you give them.
The purposes for which you're raising chickens has the greatest influence on what type of chicken breed you get. If you want to raise chickens for fresh eggs, it'd be best to go with a dual-purpose breed like the Rhode Island Red, or a commercial egg-laying strain such as the White Leghorn. If you're raising chickens for meat, you'll want a fast-growing breed that converts feed into body weight efficiently, such as the Cornish Cross. And if you're raising chickens just for fun--well, the possibilities are practically endless!
Starting the Process
First, consider how you want to start your backyard chicken flock. Most beginners start their first chicken flock using chicks purchased from commercial hatcheries like Murray McMurray Hatchery (poultryOne.com offers user reviews of chicken hatcheries). You can also purchase chicks from your local feed store (or a breeder!).
If you're feeling a little more adventurous and don't mind taking a few moments to educate yourself on the matter, you can also start your flock using fertilized eggs and incubating them yourself. This takes a little more time, but it is a great experience and will be especially educational for children. Regardless of how you start your chicken project, you'll need to put the new chicks in a brooder to keep them warm. Place the brooder in an area that is free from drafts (which can be deadly for little chicks!) and protected from predators (especially little children or family pets). Chicks need a temperature of approximately 95 degrees F for the first seven days; this is slowly lowered until they're completely feathered out.
Give your chicks easy access to fresh, clean water and food. Feed chicks chick starter, a term for poultry feed with a high amount of protein that is essential for their proper growth and development. If you purchased your chicks through a commercial hatchery, they may be a bit stressed out from being mailed cross-country. If you think it will help, purchase a chick vitamin-mix and add it to their water to help boost their immune system.
Housing Your Chickens
As your chicks become older, you'll need to take them out of the brooder and place them in a chicken coop. A good coop will protect your backyard flock from the weather, give them adequate space, provide roosts, and (if they're layers) allocate some room for nesting boxes.
If I Am Raising Layers, Do I Need A Rooster?
That is a common question that we feel must be answered right here: No! We receive a lot of questions from people wondering if they need roosters to get their hens to lay. Thankfully, you don't! In fact, if you're raising layers you are probably better off not having a rooster to begin with.
Building A Chicken Yard/Run:
Your chickens would love to be able to play outside, where they'll have access to sunshine, fresh air, and maybe some plants and bugs. An outside chicken yard or chicken run should be protected with a strong fence, and provide a small lean-to or shelter of some sort. You might also want to consider a portable run that can be moved around your yard so that your chickens can always have fresh ground to roam on.
The days of true "free ranging" are practically over. Cars and your neighbor's pets are dangerous foes, as well as natural predators like hawks and raccoons. A chicken yard is a happy compromise between the freedom of "free ranging" and the confines of a chicken coop. If you're able to, we strongly encourage you to give your chickens some sort of outdoor enclosure where they can enjoy nature without the risk of being harmed.
What Do I Feed My Chickens?
We've got a great article on feeding chickens which has been especially useful to beginners. Feed comes in several forms, including pellets, mash, and crumbles. Pellets are the easiest to feed, and the chickens can see them easier so that there is less wasted. However, experiment with the different kinds and see which works best for you.
You will also want to give your chickens grit. Grit is basically small pebbles and stones that the chicken stores in his gizzard. Because chickens do not have teeth, the grit is used to grind up their food. For chicks, grit is only needed if the chicks are eating grain or other foodstuffs. Chicks fed mash or crumbles do not need it. If you are feeding your chicks grit, do not give chicks oystershell. The extra calcium in oystershell will cause bone development problems in young birds (although it is highly beneficial for layers!).
Raising Chickens Is Fun!
There is a lot more to learn about this fantastic hobby. This article is merely a launching point to give you a few pointers about raising chickens. As you raise these fun birds, you will need to learn how to prevent diseases, eradicate parasites, and deal with problems like egg eating and feather picking. But, with the resources from poultryOne.com and help from other hobbyists in our free online poultry community, raising your own chickens will be a success!
From http://poultryone.com/
HELPFUL WEBSITES:
DAIRY GOATS:
American Dairy Goat Association
http://adga.org/
American Goat Society
http://www.americangoatsociety.com/
Dairy Goat Journal
http://www.dairygoatjournal.com/
Fir Meadow
https://www.firmeadowllc.com/
Hoegger Supply Company
https://hoeggerfarmyard.com/
Jeffers
https://www.jefferspet.com/
Fias Co Farm
http://fiascofarm.com/
Nigerian Dairy Goat Association
http://www.ndga.org/
Ramhead Supply
https://www.ramheadsupply.com/
RABBITS:
American Netherland Dwarf Rabbit Club
http://www.andrc.com/
American Rabbit Breeders Association
https://www.arba.net/
Jeffers
https://www.jefferspet.com/
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
CHICKENS:
BackYard Chickens
http://www.backyardchickens.com/
Fir Meadow
https://www.firmeadowllc.com/
Hoegger Supply Company
https://hoeggerfarmyard.com/
Jeffers
https://www.jefferspet.com/
poultryOne
http://poultryone.com/
Ramhead Supply
https://www.ramheadsupply.com/
Please remember to visit our "For Sale" page to view available animals!
BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO DAIRY GOATS
Buying Your First Dairy Goat
Dairy Goats come in all shapes and sizes, with 9 breeds currently recognized and registered by AGS. These include 7 standard-sized breeds: the French Alpine, LaMancha, Nubian, Oberhasli, Saanen, Sable and Toggenburg, and 2 miniature breeds, the African Pygmy and the Nigerian Dwarf.
There is no “right” breed of goat, only the breed that is right for the owner.
Whichever breed you chose, remember that it takes as much time and money to care for a good goat as it does a bad one. Purebred, registered animals will provide a much better return on your investment than stock from unknown origins. Research carefully before you buy. If milking ability is of primary importance to you, ask to see milk records. If excellence in the show ring is your goal, buy kids that are related to animals that are proven in that area. Although it is easy to buy animals over the phone or through the internet, try to visit the farm(s) that you are considering buying from before you make a decision. Look for clean, well-maintained surroundings, and brighteyed, friendly goats that are in good condition and free from obvious skin problems, respiratory distress or diarrhea. Ask questions about what diseases the breeder may have had and what type of preventive vaccinations and worming has been done. A responsible breeder will answer your questions honestly and directly—if you’re not comfortable with the answers go elsewhere.
Housing
Goats are naturally hardy, healthy animals, but do need at least a minimum amount of care to keep them that way. They must have shelter from severe cold, hot sun and wet weather. Barns or shelters should protect from these elements while still allowing for fresh air. Good fencing is vital for goats, both to keep them where they belong and keep predators out. At least 1500 square feet per animal is recommended, less for the miniature breeds. Overcrowding is a key factor in disease and parasite problems and should be avoided.
Feeding
There seem to be as many “proper” ways to feed a goat as there are goat owners. Generally, a concentrate (grain) of about 14—17% protein is fed, in combination with quality grass or alfalfa hay, and pasture or browse if available. Feeding programs should be adjusted to meet the needs of lactating does, breeding bucks, and growing kids. Loose minerals should be provided at all times, as well as baking soda to aid digestion. Plenty of fresh clean water is essential, and in cold weather warm water is especially appreciated. Some parts of the country are deficient in certain minerals such as copper or selenium and animals in such areas may need to be supplemented.
Health Care
As previously stated, goats are naturally hardy animals, but most breeders follow routine vaccination and worming programs for optimal health. Diseases that are commonly vaccinated for are Clostridium Perfingens Types C & D (also known as Overeaters Disease) and Tetanus.
Goats are susceptible to parasites, including intestinal parasites (worms), coccidia and external parasites such as lice. Good management practices such as alleviating overcrowding and keeping pen areas and water and feed containers clean will help, but a regular program of deworming is usually
necessary. A complete body clip at least once a year in the spring not only helps keep the goats clean and comfortable, but will rid them of any lice as well.
Hoof trimming is often a neglected task, but it should be done every 1-3 months depending on rate of hoof growth. Long, ragged untrimmed toes are detrimental to both the goat’s appearance and her long-term health. A sharp pair of pruning shears will make a quick job of trimming feet to their proper shape, which should resemble that of a kid’s hoof.
Milking
The primary function of a dairy goat is, of course, to produce milk. A doe is normally milked twice a day, for a lactation period of up to 10 months. She is then allowed to dry off before kidding again. Goats milk is high in butterfat and more digestible than cow’s milk. Many goat owners enjoy making and using the diverse products that can be made with goat milk, including soap, fudge, and many types of delightful cheeses.
Breeding and Kidding
For many goat owners, kidding time is the most exciting time of the year. But if those adorable kids are to mature into good milkers and show animals, proper planning must take place before breeding, during pregnancy, at birth and beyond.
Chose your potential sire well. Don’t be swayed by a “pretty face”. Know your doe’s strengths and weaknesses and, ideally, pick a buck that that is proven to be strong in the areas you want to improve.
Maintain your doe’s healthy diet and condition during pregnancy, not letting her get too fat or too thin. Follow your vet’s recommendations for vaccinations and worming.
Kidding usually occurs 145 to 155 days from the breeding date. Attend the birth! Most does kid with no trouble but sometimes a little assistance can make all the difference. Dip navel cords in iodine and make sure the kids start nursing well either on mom or start them on colostrum from a bottle.
Follow recommendations for vaccinations and boosters, and control coccidia and parasites.
A little extra care will go a long way towards assuring a long and productive life for your new kids.
From http://www.americangoatsociety.com/
Chose your potential sire well. Don’t be swayed by a “pretty face”. Know your doe’s strengths and weaknesses and, ideally, pick a buck that that is proven to be strong in the areas you want to improve.
Maintain your doe’s healthy diet and condition during pregnancy, not letting her get too fat or too thin. Follow your vet’s recommendations for vaccinations and worming.
Kidding usually occurs 145 to 155 days from the breeding date. Attend the birth! Most does kid with no trouble but sometimes a little assistance can make all the difference. Dip navel cords in iodine and make sure the kids start nursing well either on mom or start them on colostrum from a bottle.
Follow recommendations for vaccinations and boosters, and control coccidia and parasites.
A little extra care will go a long way towards assuring a long and productive life for your new kids.
From http://www.americangoatsociety.com/
RABBIT CARE FOR BEGINNERS
First of all, congratulations on your new (or upcoming) rabbits! I'm sure you'll find them as fun and rewarding as I have.
The first thing to consider when buying a pet rabbit or beginning to show rabbits is breed. Over 40 different breeds are accepted by the ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association). A description and standard of these breeds can be found in the Standard Of Perfection, which is available for purchase on the ARBA site. Some things to think about when deciding which breed is best for you are:
Size:
Rabbits can be small (2-4 pounds), medium (4-8 pounds), or large (8 pounds & up). If you are getting rabbits for a 7 year old, a large rabbit may not be the best thing. Also, if you have limited room on your property, smaller rabbits may be a better choice. So keep size in mind when picking a breed.
Temperament:
I'd love to tell you that there is no such thing as a mean rabbit, but I'd be lying. Some breeds are just more...aggressive than others. These breeds tend to be the running breeds, such as Tan or Britannia Petite. If you're looking for a gentle breed, then a Mini Lop, Netherland Dwarf, or Florida White may be the one for you.
Show Competition:
This may not be important for pet owners, but if you plan on showing your rabbit, it's a big deal. In some areas of the country, certain breeds are more prevalent than others. If you like a lot of competition, buy a breed that has a lot of breeders and exhibitors in your area. If you like winning rosettes and ribbons, but don't need competition, then a less common breed is for you.
Availability:
This ties into the last item. If you plan on buying quite a few rabbits or want the possibility of adding to your stock later on, you don't want to have to ship rabbits from 2,000 miles away. It's better to get a breed that is well-known and common in your area.
Why You Want a Rabbit:
Different rabbits are for different things. Some breeds are better suited for, let's say, fur production. If you want to have a side business besides showing and breeding, then you might want to get a meat breed or a wool/fur breed. Meat breeds include New Zealands, Californians, Palomino, or Champagne D'Argent. Wool breeds include French Angora and English Angora. Fur breeds are Rex, New Zealands, and Californians. Some breeds, such as the Netherland Dwarf, Mini Rex, and Holland Lop, are just for showing and possibly for pets (although pretty much any breed can be a pet.) Once you've figured out what type of breed of rabbit you want, you should make sure that you have the proper equipment and supplies. You need to think about:
Housing:
The type of housing you need depends on whether you have one rabbit for a pet or whether you want more than a few rabbits. The more rabbits you have, the more accommodating your space must be. A recommended cage size for a small rabbit is 30" X 30" X 14". This will give your rabbit plenty of room to run around and be a rabbit, while providing room for a nest box in the future. Larger rabbits should have around 36" X 30" X 18".
Wire is the best material for cages because it's the easiest to clean and sanitize. Wood will get messy quickly, and rabbits tend to chew on it. An all-wire cage is best, but if wood is needed, try and keep the amount of wood available to the rabbit inside the cage or hutch at a minimum.
Cages should be kept out of drafts, away from predators, and out of the weather. Also, they should be kept in the shade, because rabbits are very susceptible to heat and can get ill if they are not well-cooled.
A sitting board should be provided for larger breeds and for rabbits which have a thinner hair surface of their feet. This is to prevent sore hocks.
Food:
Pellets are the best bet for pet and show animals alike. They contain most if not all of the nutrients a rabbit needs to stay healthy. Several different brands and formulas exist, so ask your pet shop employee or feed store worker to help you choose the correct feed. In my experience, pellets are cheaper in feed stores, and if you have quite a few rabbits, it may be helpful to buy in bulk. Just be warned that feed does go bad, so watch for mold that can make your bunnies sick. The amount to feed a rabbit depends on size and situation. If you have smaller rabbits, such as a Netherland Dwarf, 3 ounces a day is plenty. For larger breeds, the recommended formula is one ounce of pellets per pound of body weight. If a rabbit is pregnant, lactating, or is still growing, they can have full feed, which is unlimited food in front of them all day.
Along with pellets, a rabbit's diet can be supplemented with roughage (hay) of some sort. Rabbits love alfalfa, but it's very rich and should be fed only in moderation. Grass hay such as timothy hay is best and less expensive. Give them all the grass hay they want.
Food dishes should be heavy and not easily tipped or have some sort of device to hold them down. How much money has been wasted in any rabbitry because of spilled feed.
Water:
Water is the most important thing your rabbit needs in his daily diet. Unlike humans, rabbits cannot get water from their food, so we must provide them with clean, fresh water daily. If you notice that the crock or dish is dirty, please take five minutes and clean it out very well. Especially in warmer weather, you should be sure your rabbit has a constant supply of water.
Water dishes should hold plenty of water and be heavy ceramic crocks or large Croc-Locks. Water bottles work also, but some rabbits don't know how to use them. Just make sure all of your equipment is clean and sanitary.
Although a lot more goes into keeping rabbits, this article should get you started on the right path.
A BEGINNER'S INTRODUCTION TO RAISING CHICKENS FOR FUN
Reasons for Raising Chickens
The most common reasons for raising chickens is for fun (e.g. hobby farms), fresh eggs, fresh poultry meat and for gardening purposes (e.g. chicken manure and fertilizer and weed/pest control).
The reason you're raising chickens may influence, to a certain degree, what you need to get started in this fun hobby. Of course, all chickens have general husbandry requirements regardless of the reason they're being raised. All chickens need a chicken coop or house to protect them from predators and the weather; clean water and fresh food; and adequate space. However, your individual purpose for raising chickens may affect how you go about building the chicken coop or what type of chicken feed you give them.
The purposes for which you're raising chickens has the greatest influence on what type of chicken breed you get. If you want to raise chickens for fresh eggs, it'd be best to go with a dual-purpose breed like the Rhode Island Red, or a commercial egg-laying strain such as the White Leghorn. If you're raising chickens for meat, you'll want a fast-growing breed that converts feed into body weight efficiently, such as the Cornish Cross. And if you're raising chickens just for fun--well, the possibilities are practically endless!
Starting the Process
First, consider how you want to start your backyard chicken flock. Most beginners start their first chicken flock using chicks purchased from commercial hatcheries like Murray McMurray Hatchery (poultryOne.com offers user reviews of chicken hatcheries). You can also purchase chicks from your local feed store (or a breeder!).
If you're feeling a little more adventurous and don't mind taking a few moments to educate yourself on the matter, you can also start your flock using fertilized eggs and incubating them yourself. This takes a little more time, but it is a great experience and will be especially educational for children. Regardless of how you start your chicken project, you'll need to put the new chicks in a brooder to keep them warm. Place the brooder in an area that is free from drafts (which can be deadly for little chicks!) and protected from predators (especially little children or family pets). Chicks need a temperature of approximately 95 degrees F for the first seven days; this is slowly lowered until they're completely feathered out.
Give your chicks easy access to fresh, clean water and food. Feed chicks chick starter, a term for poultry feed with a high amount of protein that is essential for their proper growth and development. If you purchased your chicks through a commercial hatchery, they may be a bit stressed out from being mailed cross-country. If you think it will help, purchase a chick vitamin-mix and add it to their water to help boost their immune system.
Housing Your Chickens
As your chicks become older, you'll need to take them out of the brooder and place them in a chicken coop. A good coop will protect your backyard flock from the weather, give them adequate space, provide roosts, and (if they're layers) allocate some room for nesting boxes.
If I Am Raising Layers, Do I Need A Rooster?
That is a common question that we feel must be answered right here: No! We receive a lot of questions from people wondering if they need roosters to get their hens to lay. Thankfully, you don't! In fact, if you're raising layers you are probably better off not having a rooster to begin with.
Building A Chicken Yard/Run:
Your chickens would love to be able to play outside, where they'll have access to sunshine, fresh air, and maybe some plants and bugs. An outside chicken yard or chicken run should be protected with a strong fence, and provide a small lean-to or shelter of some sort. You might also want to consider a portable run that can be moved around your yard so that your chickens can always have fresh ground to roam on.
The days of true "free ranging" are practically over. Cars and your neighbor's pets are dangerous foes, as well as natural predators like hawks and raccoons. A chicken yard is a happy compromise between the freedom of "free ranging" and the confines of a chicken coop. If you're able to, we strongly encourage you to give your chickens some sort of outdoor enclosure where they can enjoy nature without the risk of being harmed.
What Do I Feed My Chickens?
We've got a great article on feeding chickens which has been especially useful to beginners. Feed comes in several forms, including pellets, mash, and crumbles. Pellets are the easiest to feed, and the chickens can see them easier so that there is less wasted. However, experiment with the different kinds and see which works best for you.
You will also want to give your chickens grit. Grit is basically small pebbles and stones that the chicken stores in his gizzard. Because chickens do not have teeth, the grit is used to grind up their food. For chicks, grit is only needed if the chicks are eating grain or other foodstuffs. Chicks fed mash or crumbles do not need it. If you are feeding your chicks grit, do not give chicks oystershell. The extra calcium in oystershell will cause bone development problems in young birds (although it is highly beneficial for layers!).
Raising Chickens Is Fun!
There is a lot more to learn about this fantastic hobby. This article is merely a launching point to give you a few pointers about raising chickens. As you raise these fun birds, you will need to learn how to prevent diseases, eradicate parasites, and deal with problems like egg eating and feather picking. But, with the resources from poultryOne.com and help from other hobbyists in our free online poultry community, raising your own chickens will be a success!
From http://poultryone.com/
HELPFUL WEBSITES:
DAIRY GOATS:
American Dairy Goat Association
http://adga.org/
American Goat Society
http://www.americangoatsociety.com/
Dairy Goat Journal
http://www.dairygoatjournal.com/
Fir Meadow
https://www.firmeadowllc.com/
Hoegger Supply Company
https://hoeggerfarmyard.com/
Jeffers
https://www.jefferspet.com/
Fias Co Farm
http://fiascofarm.com/
Nigerian Dairy Goat Association
http://www.ndga.org/
Ramhead Supply
https://www.ramheadsupply.com/
RABBITS:
American Netherland Dwarf Rabbit Club
http://www.andrc.com/
American Rabbit Breeders Association
https://www.arba.net/
Jeffers
https://www.jefferspet.com/
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
CHICKENS:
BackYard Chickens
http://www.backyardchickens.com/
Fir Meadow
https://www.firmeadowllc.com/
Hoegger Supply Company
https://hoeggerfarmyard.com/
Jeffers
https://www.jefferspet.com/
poultryOne
http://poultryone.com/
Ramhead Supply
https://www.ramheadsupply.com/
Please remember to visit our "For Sale" page to view available animals!
